Chica Bonita Wall and Fortress Wall
This past weekend I met up with some new friends to climb some rocks.
On Saturday we went to Chica Bonita wall. It was great because there is a good combination of hard (10's/11's) sport along with some easier (7/8) trad routes. One of the best 5.8 trad routes in the gorge also happens to be there. Typically, the area is more known as slabby, which is rare in the steep walls of the Red.
We started the day with some easy 5 fun type sport routes. I found this chimney at the bottom of a .10a trad route and I knew I had to try it. I ended up slithering my way up the chimney and rapped off the rings next to the chimney. I think I placed two pieces of gear, but it was pretty much run out.
We then moved over to Cheaper than a Movie, the 5 star trad 5.8 route. I ended up cleaning it. Then onsited the .10a next to it before giving it a go. The gear took really well and was an absolute fantastic climb. I'd say probably the best trad route I've ever done. I wanted to climb it multiple times it was that good. I finished the day off with a redpoint of a .10c and then followed another 5.8 trad route. Overall great day.
That night I decided to sleep out on top of Raven Rock. I hiked up in the dark under the stars. The temperature was perfect and a fantastic night to be in a sleeping bag (but really when is it not?).
I got up watched the sunrise, read a book, got down and was getting ready to meet up with my friends again when I realized I couldn't find my glasses... The last place I had seen them was the top of Raven Rock..
I ended up running up and down Raven Rock, to get back in the car, drive to fortress wall and run up the trail to the wall to meet the group.
I started the day with a solid lead on Clypso III, definitely bring that #4, you're going to want it at the top. I then followed Snake, which is another amazing 5.8. I think the thing i'm realizing is when you get better at trad (and sport for that matter) the quality of the climbs go up which is all the more reason to push yourself.
We then ran over to do the obligatory Bed Time for Bonzo run. After rapping we did a lap on Party Time before finishing the weekend on a well deserved Miguel's pizza run. The first pitch of party time stretched me pretty good mentally, or so I thought until I was tackling the second pitch. The second pitch was really the first time I almost got out of my head while leading trad. It was rough. Placements seemed to be too run out than I would like and I was running out of protection and couldn't see the anchors. Luckily, after pulling a small bulge(roof?) the anchors popped into sight and I was finished. Rapped down with a 70m from the top with no problem and headed back to Lexington.
On Saturday we went to Chica Bonita wall. It was great because there is a good combination of hard (10's/11's) sport along with some easier (7/8) trad routes. One of the best 5.8 trad routes in the gorge also happens to be there. Typically, the area is more known as slabby, which is rare in the steep walls of the Red.
We started the day with some easy 5 fun type sport routes. I found this chimney at the bottom of a .10a trad route and I knew I had to try it. I ended up slithering my way up the chimney and rapped off the rings next to the chimney. I think I placed two pieces of gear, but it was pretty much run out.
We then moved over to Cheaper than a Movie, the 5 star trad 5.8 route. I ended up cleaning it. Then onsited the .10a next to it before giving it a go. The gear took really well and was an absolute fantastic climb. I'd say probably the best trad route I've ever done. I wanted to climb it multiple times it was that good. I finished the day off with a redpoint of a .10c and then followed another 5.8 trad route. Overall great day.
 |
| The start on Cheaper Than A Movie. |
 |
| Loving that Layback |
 |
| Solid day 1. |
I got up watched the sunrise, read a book, got down and was getting ready to meet up with my friends again when I realized I couldn't find my glasses... The last place I had seen them was the top of Raven Rock..
I ended up running up and down Raven Rock, to get back in the car, drive to fortress wall and run up the trail to the wall to meet the group.
I started the day with a solid lead on Clypso III, definitely bring that #4, you're going to want it at the top. I then followed Snake, which is another amazing 5.8. I think the thing i'm realizing is when you get better at trad (and sport for that matter) the quality of the climbs go up which is all the more reason to push yourself.
 |
| Crux on Snake |
 |
| View from Bedtime for Bonzo |
 |
| Working the slanted crack on P2 of Bedtime |
 |
| P1 of Party Time. (Maybe I should Place a Piece eh?) |